10 secrets of growing indoor roses
Another “bonus" is always attached to the flowering of indoor roses - moodiness. When they say that it is very easy to grow roses in rooms, they are cunning. For flowering indoor roses, it is necessary to create literally ideal conditions. And vigilant care, attention and response to any plant signals is the main guarantee of success. True, no matter how capricious roses may be, growing them in a potted format can be quite successful. And attentive gardeners should not be afraid of this.
In order for indoor roses to bloom from year to year and stay healthy, to produce a dense crown from bright leaves, you need to carefully study the characteristics and habits of plants. The first mistakes can be made already when choosing a rose on the counter. But for the first days in the house, and for future care, there are secrets.
1. Making the right plant choice
When choosing roses, it is worthwhile to carefully weigh your own abilities to satisfy the individual preferences of the plant. Despite the fact that indoor roses seem the same and are chosen for “taste and color”, they are not at all uniform in their capriciousness. In the same way as among garden roses, floribundas differ from grandiflor, and those from hybrid tea roses, so indoor roses differ in endurance, ability to easily withstand light deviations from ideal conditions, and resistance to diseases.
True, sorting out the assortment of indoor roses is much easier: the more compact, denser, more natural in silhouette and mid-flowering plant, the less capricious it is. Everything unusual, large, perfectly strict, miniature, plentiful, extravagant and effective in indoor roses is also synonymous with their moodiness. Therefore, among the presented beauties, the choice is always better to make in favor of the “modest”.
Roses from a group of miniature, with tiny flowers, are not only unstable to diseases, but also do not dump fading flowers. Luxurious large-flowered series and ampelous roses may be resistant to diseases, but they require a very strict period of rest and error-free care.
But there are exceptions. Much more colorful and powerful compared to regular indoor patios of the rose series Patio Hit can withstand drought and grow well in dry air. But you will have to "pay" for it - a cold wintering. It is better to ask about the usual conditions and features of the content of roses when buying.
2. Quarantine period with a small bonus
The first days of indoor roses in the house are the most important. In fact, they will determine how the plant will grow and whether it will survive in the new house. In the case of roses, regular care should be combined with a soft, smooth adaptation - the usual “intermediate” quarantine period.
No matter how beautiful a blooming rose may seem (they usually buy potted beauties at the peak of flowering), you should not immediately bring it to a permanent place. Recommended and familiar conditions "average", avoiding any extremes.
The rose is placed distantly from other plants - in soft lighting with medium or slightly lower temperatures. Protect from drafts, temperature spikes, direct sun, lack of light and other extremes. But before you carry the rose in such conditions, you must definitely take care of its cleaning and preparation. Sellers always treat roses with special preparations for leaves, indulge with foliar top dressing to achieve maximum “marketable” decorativeness, and more often they also add “secret” means to the cocktail - growth inhibitors that keep the bushes compact.
To wash off all contaminants and drug residues from a rose is a very important task and requires only a few procedures:
- carefully inspect the rose very carefully, paying particular attention to the back of the leaves;
- remove damaged, dry leaves beginning to change color from the plant, if necessary, shorten the damaged shoots;
- gently, without soaking flowers and soil surface, wash the bushes under a warm shower.
If there is any suspicion of infection with fungal diseases, infections, pests, immediately after swallowing it is better to carry out preventive spraying with universal insecticidal and fungicidal preparations.
The main secret of the quarantine period of the rose is a soft “transfer” of the plant to a new air humidity. In any flower shop, roses enjoy high and stable humidity. In the first 2-3 days, roses are either often sprayed or a moisturizer is installed. And from the fourth day they slowly decrease the moisture indicators, bringing to those in which you intend to grow the plant in a permanent place. Spraying is more convenient, because it can simply be made rarer.
After the end of the adaptation period, the rose is transferred to a permanent place, adding to their collections. For infected plants, isolation is continued for the entire duration of treatment.
3. Do not rush to change
A transplant after purchase and even after a quarantine period is carried out only when absolutely necessary. If several bushes grow in a pot, they should never be separated until next spring or at least until flowering ends.
Pots with roses can always be simply put in a more decorative container, but it is better to abandon the transplant until the optimal time if the plant has room to grow and the roots do not come out of the drainage holes.
In an emergency transplant, the rose is transshipped without destroying the earthen coma and slightly removing only the free upper and lower soil layers. If you need to fill up the substrate or change the topsoil, use a high-quality substrate for roses.
The optimal time for transplanting roses is a few weeks after the end of flowering or in the early spring (before the rose begins to grow - in late February or early March).
Indoor roses are transplanted annually, growing in compact containers sufficient for the development of the plant for one season. The diameter of the pots is increased by only 2-3 cm, if necessary, the root system is cut to restore compactness. They are sensitive to soil depletion and even a partial change of substrate with the addition of fresh soil allows you to maintain a normal environment for the plant.
When the time comes, the roses are transplanted very carefully, even when the bushes are separated, trying to minimize contact. Indoor roses are grown only in containers with large drainage holes, of a classic shape, not too deep, but not flat, with drainage, the height of which should be from ¼ to 1/3 of the height of the container.
For roses, it is better to use either ready-made special substrates (almost every manufacturer has a special primer for roses), or high-quality universal soil with a rough texture. If you have separate components, then the soil mixture can be made up of equal parts of peat and humus, adding half the proportion of sand, charcoal or ash.
4. Ideal location for exemplary flowering
Royal roses, even in a room format, poorly “agree” to compromise. Any place will not suit them. Roses not only bloom only under conditions ideally suited to their requirements, but they are also able to preserve greenery, develop normally, bloom again only with the right lighting and temperatures.
For indoor roses, you need to find a place in the house where the lighting will be diffused, but very bright. Indoor roses are placed only on window sills, while not always even the first row is a sufficient guarantee that roses will not need backlighting.
Oriental or southwest oriented windows are best suited for roses. On the southern windows, the roses are too hot, on the north, when flowering continues and leaves are preserved, backlighting is needed not only in winter but also in autumn, and on western windows, backlighting is required in winter. Winter lighting for roses with bare shoots is not critical.
Roses are tolerant to room temperatures. But the cooler the environment, the longer and less quality they bloom, the better the leaves look. Permissible air temperature for roses is from 16 to 26 degrees during the flowering period. The optimal values of indicators are much more modest - from 16 to 22 degrees.
During dormancy, roses must be kept cool. With an ideal value of 12 to 15 degrees, the permissible deviations are from 3 degrees of heat to 15 degrees of heat, maximum. All exceeded permissible ranges affect the growth and flowering of indoor roses, and temperature compensation measures should be taken immediately. The minimum temperature that indoor roses can tolerate is 0 ° C.
5. Simple protection against abnormal temperatures
Despite the fact that indoor roses are quite sensitive to improper temperatures, you can compensate for them by leaving and additional procedures. It is the care and careful observation of the plant that is the main guarantee that roses in a potted format will preserve their health.
There are only two treatments that can help roses cope with hotter temperatures:
- spraying, which can be included in the care program when the temperature rises to 24 degrees or more (in the summer it is carried out several times a day);
- ventilation of rooms (with protection of the plant from drafts and a sharp temperature difference in the form of a protective shelter or temporary transfer to a new place).
But with reduced, too cold values it is easier to fight: the plant is simply transferred to a room warmer. In winter, if roses contain at a temperature below 10 degrees, plants are saved from hypothermia and the risk of falling values below 3 degrees of heat with the help of additional insulation of containers or a temporary hood. When the temperature rises, it is important to protect roses from a sharp drop, slowly changing the temperature of the content to reduce stress.
Any extremes with hypothermia or overheating of the soil for roses are very dangerous. And while the temperature in the room is easily balanced by timely measures taken, it is more and more difficult with the substrate. Any contact with cold surfaces, including glass or windowsill, without a protective stand, in the cold season can lead to partial subcooling of the substrate.
In the summer on hot days, the soil needs to be protected from overheating, including through the use of double containers and wrapping materials that stabilize the temperature of the substrate inside the main pot.
To stabilize the temperature, the roses are watered slightly tepid - 2-4 degrees higher than the temperature in the room - with water. In summer, if the rooms are very hot, the water temperature can be lowered by 2-3 degrees, but only in extreme cases and without creating a temperature shock for the roots of the plant.
6. Strict shape and clean bushes for successful flowering
In order for indoor roses to bloom as long and as plentiful as possible, care must be taken in time to remove fading flowers. As with garden bushes, blooming luxurious flowers will not decorate a room rose. But if in the garden from afar their shortcomings may not be noticed, in the room all the "ugliness" are immediately evident.
Do not wait for the fall of even the first petal: the flowers are cut as soon as they begin to wither. Pruning of fading inflorescences and rose flowers must be carried out correctly: if it is not a multi-flowered rose with flowers collected in thick inflorescences, then together with the peduncle to the first leaf.
If a rose releases shields and brushes of inflorescences, then individual flowers are cut off with the peduncle, and after the last flower fades, the whole inflorescence, according to general rules, is up to the first leaf.
The main formation and pruning of shoots is carried out only after flowering. Pruning on indoor roses can be done:
- after dropping leaves (if they remain, 1 week after flowering) after the plant has been transferred to cool conditions;
- before the start of active growth and transplantation, if any.
Damaged, dry shoots are removed on all indoor roses, and the rest are shortened to short stumps with 3–5 buds, leaving branches about 10-15 cm high. The bushes are formed so that they are regularly renewed, leaving about 4-6 strong skeletal shoots and removing the oldest and weakest twigs.
When pruning, you need to ensure that the upper kidney is directed outside the bush. With the growth of new branches, the formation is carried out by pinching and selectively pruning the tops or shortening too long branches to 3-5 buds.
7. Abundant watering, but reasonably
At a time when roses are actively increasing their vegetative mass, releasing buds and blooming, they always need plentiful, frequent watering. But to conduct them thoughtlessly would be a big mistake. The status of a beautifully flowering, but capricious queen of a rose was received not by chance. Queen queens need to be watered so that the substrate is always stably moist - but not easily or excessively, but at medium levels.
This stability can be achieved only in one way - before each subsequent watering, checking how the soil in the pots dries. Indoor roses love to completely dry only 2-3 top centimeters of soil.
In order not to have to carry out a manual check, you can purchase simple moisture indicators that will tell you when to irrigate. It is not permissible to allow water to accumulate in trays and the bottom of the substrate. It is better to drain excess water from the coasters as soon as it appears.
During dormancy, the frequency of watering, as well as how meager they should be, is determined by the temperature of the rose. The ideal strategy is to check the drying of the substrate and dry it by about a third or half.
Both in autumn and winter, abundant procedures are best avoided: it is much safer to irrigate more often, but with a small amount of water, slightly soaking the substrate. The warmer, the more often it will be necessary to water roses, while when kept in cold at minimum permissible temperatures, watering may be needed no more than 1-2 times a month.
Even a single complete drying of the substrate and skipping irrigation, as well as dampness, stagnation of water, for indoor roses will not pass without a trace. These plants never forgive mistakes, and with watering - in the first place. Of course, the consequences are most obvious during flowering, but even during dormancy, one should not experiment with extremes.
8. Bonus top dressing
Roses are often recommended to be fed in the same way as any other beautifully flowering houseplant - during the period of active growth. Usually - in spring and summer, or from the moment the growth of new leaves and shoots begins until the end of the flowering period.
For them, the standard frequency of top dressing is considered once every 2 weeks. But in order to achieve maximum efficiency from the rose and preserve plants from year to year, you should not limit yourself to the usual approach. A few additional procedures and a little trick with a decrease in frequency will satisfy all the needs of roses without the risk of overfeeding or underfeeding.
Indoor roses, indeed, can be fed once every 2 weeks with complex fertilizers, if desired, changing their composition at the stage of budding and flowering. But much better roses respond to weekly dressing. It is better to carry them out separately with mineral and organic fertilizers, using half of the usual dose. Special fertilizers for roses are quite suitable for the mineral "stage".
You can apply another strategy. At the very beginning of the growth during the month, it is better to feed roses with full mineral fertilizers or fertilizers with a high nitrogen content. At the stage of forming buds for roses, potassium-phosphorus fertilizing is needed, which can be continued both at the beginning of flowering and until its middle, then again returning to balanced fertilizers.
For indoor roses, it is better to choose liquid fertilizers and purchased preparations with well-known properties, especially when it comes to organic fertilizers.
The usual top dressing for indoor roses is not enough. Foliar top dressing is a guarantee of both better budding and lush green bushes. It is they that allow roses to look so luxurious on the shelves. Foliar feeding is carried out only 3 or 4 times, with the same interval from 10 to 12 days, during the spring, starting from the moment when young branches begin to grow actively.
9. Strict and smooth rest period
Roses are one of the plants that will not bloom without a cool dormant phase. But putting them out for the “winter”, it is worth remembering that despite the sharp differences in the conditions between the dormant period and the stage of active vegetation and flowering, it is as smooth as possible to transfer roses to “rest”.
In traditionally flowering indoor roses, the dormant period falls in the winter and starts in November, ending in late February-March. But indoor roses are often expelled for winter flowering, under optimal conditions, they can bloom relentlessly and the rest period is shifted by other periods. If the plants continue to bloom, they are provided with consistently bright lighting, and they are transferred to new conditions after flowering is completed.
Gradual lowering of temperature and reduction of watering in addition to a sharp stop of fertilizing is all that roses need to move to a new stage. It is better to reduce watering from the moment the last flowers begin to wither, gradually reducing the amount of water and increasing the frequency of procedures, drying the substrate more strongly.
Sharpening roses in the cold is not a good idea. Roses should be in “intermediate” conditions for 1-2 weeks before being sent to the cold, especially if they plan to lower the temperatures to less than 5 degrees. Easy adaptation at 12-15 degrees will allow plants to prepare for wintering much better.
The return return of the rose to heat and to active irrigation is carried out after transplantation, without a smooth transition.
10. Summer indoor roses are best spent in the garden
Indoor roses are big lovers of fresh air. Even insufficiently frequent airing instantly affects the growth and flowering of the plant. And even if fresh air stimulates roses in the rooms, the full effect of revitalization, lush and rapid growth and colorful blooming can be appreciated only if the roses are brought out to fresh air in the summer. On the terrace or balcony, they literally transform, changing beyond recognition.
Indoor roses can even be planted in the soil for the summer:
- digging the pots into the planting pits dug in the size of the tank in the foreground of flower beds or rabatok (a drainage is laid under the tank to protect the containers);
- handling them into the ground as full-fledged seedlings.
So you can stimulate renewal, more abundant flowering, thickening shoots and building a powerful root system. Roses that are planted in the soil grow more actively and faster. This is the best method of "rehabilitation" of diseased bushes and roses in a depressed state.