Why is pelargonium not blooming?
The main decoration of the summer window sills and the symbol of the bright and colorful summer pelargonium is a real room and balcony classic. But to call pelargonium blooming culture always and everywhere would be a big mistake. Pelargonium does not necessarily require a cool winter, but is sensitive to lighting and pruning. And without basic care, it can disappoint no less than more capricious houseplants. Fortunately, hardy and simple pelargonium requires only basic procedures. And if you make really big mistakes, you will certainly be able to admire the umbrellas of fragrant inflorescences.
What does pelargonium want?
With pelargoniums, creating problems and improperly selecting conditions is much more difficult than finding a suitable place for them. They are hardy and present a minimum of requirements, clearly "indicating" the boundaries of the permissible. Room pelargonium will be comfortable if you provide 5 main factors.
Despite the ability to grow and delight with greenery and in secluded places, pelargoniums for flowering will prefer sunny or diffusedly bright conditions characteristic of window sills and balconies. Not only the duration of flowering, but also the quality depends on the light intensity - the size of flowers and inflorescences, their quantity and color intensity.
Pelargonium does not like sharp changes in the level of illumination and “welcomes” all types of compensation measures on cloudy days, as well as to prolong flowering in autumn and winter. Direct sun threatens leaf ornaments at noon.
Special wintering regime
Pelargonium, despite the popular myth, can bloom without a cool winter, although it is desirable for all, without exception, indoor species. The main thing for the plant in winter is to change watering, stop feeding and give the necessary “respite” to prepare for the next flowering.
Wintering at temperatures from 10 to 15 degrees will allow you to maintain the shape of the bushes and achieve more intense flowering, but its absence is easily compensated by pruning and correction of care.
Pelargoniums are not in vain so good on window sills and balconies: they adore fresh air and will enjoy airing. The more elaborate the flowers and the more elegant the variety, the more sensitive the plants are to drafts, but without access to fresh air, no pelargonium can be grown.
No extremes with overflows
Pelargoniums are not afraid of short droughts, forgive mistakes, but will not tolerate extremes with overflows. They will prefer classic irrigation, between which the top layer of the substrate dries in the spring-summer and twice as much drying of the soil in winter with minimal watering.
Pelargoniums do not require an increase in air humidity and only in the heat they will not give up spraying.
Top dressing only during flowering
Top dressing is also carried out only during the period of active vegetation and flowering. For this, fertilizers are used for flowering plants. The frequency of top dressing is once every 2 weeks, the dosage can be clarified on the packaging of the product.
Shaping to keep fit
Pelargoniums, even with a cool wintering, need trimmings. They can be “cut” in early spring (and when wintering at elevated temperatures, this option is also preferable), and immediately after flowering in the fall. Simply removing the oldest shoots and shortening all the rest is enough for a dense crown and lush flowering, and as the young branches grow, they need to be pinched, further stimulating thickening.
Pinching, which is carried out after laying the buds, is one of the secrets that allows you to get irresistibly lush inflorescences.
In their requirements for conditions and care, all types of pelargonium are similar. But large-flowered pelargonium (the most capricious of the species), unlike relatives, will not tolerate reduced lighting, it does not endure drought so persistently and does not forgive easy care. But even she is not afraid of transplantation, which is carried out as the substrate is filled with roots annually or once every 2 years.
Transplantation requires high drainage, universal soil - subject to its nutritional value, friability and neutral acidity. Oddly enough, the most common reason for the lack of flowering in pelargonium is associated with a transplant.
Read more about the types of pelargonium in the article Pelargonium - the most hardy of the flowering.
"Wrong" pot - lack of flowering
In pelargonium, the most common reason for the lack of flowering was and remains the "excess" space of the pot. If this plant is planted in spacious, large, greatly exceeding the root lump pots, then flowering will begin no earlier than the entire container space has been mastered. The development of pelargonium will occur only in the form of an increase in shoots and greenery.
To grow pelargonium in large containers, several bushes are planted there in a group, reducing the space for the development of each plant to normal. To avoid the problem of excess space, it is enough to transplant the geranium into pots, only 1-2 cm larger than the previous ones.
The inverse problem - the lack of transplantation and the filling of the entire substrate with roots - can also affect flowering, but leads to its complete absence less often. But the depletion of the soil and its poor quality will be difficult to compensate even with top dressing.
A lot of moisture in winter - few flowers in summer
Reducing winter watering is one of two main conditions that allow pelargonium to go through the normal dormant phase. Even if the bushes remain wintering in ordinary living rooms, for them it is still necessary to reduce watering by an average of half, drying the substrate harder. If you leave the watering the same, you should not count on flowering.
Pelargoniums tolerate droughts, but they hate dampness. Rotting of the roots, constant waterlogging of the soil, stagnation of water in pallets and the lower part of the substrate affect the condition of the plant so much that flowering can be forgotten.
Subtleties of dressing
Pelargoniums often mistakenly feed a lot. The use of the usual top-dressing scheme for flyers for the plant - weekly procedures - is not a good idea. This plant requires standard top dressing, and an excess of both macro- and microelements affects its development.
If you feed the room "geranium" outside the phase of active vegetation and flowering, add too intense or frequent feeding, nothing but rapid growth, deformation and stability problems can be achieved.
The choice of fertilizers does not accidentally reduce all options to mixtures in which potassium and phosphorus dominate. Even the same percentage of nitrogen in fertilizers leads to a buildup of stormy greenery, which is to say about its excess. Top dressing with improperly selected mixtures often leads to a delay and lack of flowering in home geraniums.
Ideally, the percentage of nitrogen should not exceed 11%. When choosing fertilizers, pay attention to the proportion of phosphorus, which is critical for this crop, as well as the presence of trace elements of iodine in it.
Other reasons why pelargonium does not bloom
Other reasons that can lead to the fact that pelargonium will cease to bloom on time include:
- very poor lighting;
- salting of the soil as a result of irrigation with not settled water;
- too high humidity, soaking leaves and buds;
- constant rotation and transfer of the plant at the stage of budding;
- lack of pruning (excessive thickening) or excessive pruning with too low shortening of branches (below the 2nd - 3rd eye);
- natural aging of bushes (in many varieties, decorativeness is lost already from the third year);
- severe pest infection.
Even if the pelargonium is started, the old one does not bloom for a long time, the plant does not have to be “copied”. Bushes can always be dug up or planted in the garden, giving time for recovery. But it’s even simpler to resume the cultivation using cuttings.
Semi-lignified shoots from the second half of summer to mid-autumn are cut off with the heel, slightly dried and rooted in water or soil according to the standard method. Of course, you can grow new bushes from seeds, but the cuttings give much faster results.